Day 8 - Dambulla to Polonnaruwa (by bus)

I was up early again & walked to the bus station to catch the bus to Polonnaruwa, however when reaching the station I was told the bus leaves opposite the bus station? Whilst waiting at the bus stop a tuk tuk driver informed me it would be bus #45. It was the longest time that I had to wait for a bus since arriving in Sri Lanka, it was 30 minutes! (Sunday). The fare was 52 LKR.

The bus was packed & so I had to stand with my backpack. After about 40 minutes we stopped at a roadside cafe for about 10 minutes, most people jumped off the bus whereas I didn't bother. Some people must have reached their destination as there were free available seats when we headed off again. I ended up sitting next to a young student returning from Kandy University for a few days. He made sure the bus conductor informed me when we reached the 'old town' of Polonnaruwa (this is the best place for hotels according to my guide book). Whilst chatting I learnt that it was 20,000 rupees for a blackberry & the price of petrol is about 125 rupees a litre!

The journey took about two and half hours, & as soon as I jumped off the bus I was greeted by a local man wanting to take me to his hotel! I decided to let him show me it as it was only across the road from the bus stop. I agreed to take the room at the 'Thisal Guest' at a price of 800 LKR (this was the price I mentioned when he asked me at the bus stop what I wanted to pay!) He was also very keen to hire out one of his bicycles for a tour of the ancient city, (I had already decided I wanted to walk).

Walking to the ancient site of Polonnaruwa

The heyday of this ancient capital was in the 12th century when a total of four kings reigned over this city during this period. Rajahrajah, Vijayabahu, Parakramabahu (who developed a lot in the city) and finally Nissankamalla. It was finally swallowed up by the jungle in 1293.

I decided to grab a late breakfast (cafe opposite the bus stop), & had kottu roti and hoppers. I then headed on foot to the ancient site, and it wasn't long before I reached the entrance & presented my cultural triangle ticket.

It was really great walking around the old site and Gal Vihara was truly amazing. I think Rankot would look great at night as it was festooned with lights. After reaching Tivanka-Patamaghara I decided to head back south and visited the cafe I'd visited for breakfast, as it was a great friendly place with good honest food. I spotted the hotel owner again hanging around and I think he was a little disappointed that I did not want to hire one of his bikes! When I left the cafe the hotel owner suggested I could catch a tuk tukto to Potul Vihara for 300 LKR, I decided to walk again.

Quadrangle complex - This building being the Vantage built by Parakramabahu (it may have housed the tooth relic of Buddha)

The Vantage

Moonstone at The Vantage

The 'Sandakada Pahana' at the entrance to the Vatadage Sandakada pahana, also known as 'Moonstone', is a unique feature of the Sinhalese architecture of ancient Sri Lanka. It is an elaborately carved semi-circular stone slab, usually placed at the bottom of staircases and entrances.

Macaque monkey preening

Rankot Vihara - Red brick Dagoba rising to a height of 55m (4th largest structure in Sri Lanka)

Rankot Vihara

 The Lankatilaka temple

Alahana Pirivena - Lankatilaka temple, with a 14m high standing Budhha built by Parakramabahu. This building built with brick is an image house built during the reign of King Parakramabahu I (1153 -1186 AD)

Large seated Buddha at Gal Vihara

Gal Vihara (12th century by Parakramabahu), represents the pinnacle of Sri Lankan rock carving. The four Buddha statues are all carved from the same massive granite outcrop, originally formed part of a monastery complex.

The large seated Buddha is 15 feet 2.5 inches tall. The seat was carved in the shape of a lotus flower, its base decorated with carvings of flowers & lions.

Reclining Buddha at Gal Vihara

Reclining Buddha - At 46 feet 4 inches (It is said, the bolster upon which the Buddha rests his head has been so well carved that it looks like a cotton stuffed pillow rather than one carved from rock). The upper foot is slightly withdrawn to indicate that the image depicts that the Buddha has attained parinirvana (final nirvana, which occurs upon the death of the body of someone who has attained complete awakening).

Seated Buddha at Gal Vihara

Macaque monkeys sleeping

A Grey Langur

 

A very large lizard!

After visiting Gal Vihara I headed back towards my hotel (on my way to Potul Vihara) & visited the local  museum, (using my CTT). I then continued to walk along the lovely lake side, passing many locals flying kites, bathing, washing and fishing! I finally reached the Potul Vihara statue (I noticed a few hotels nearby which would have been a great peaceful place to stay for a day or two), before heading back along the lake side again managing to grab some photographs of the sun setting. Sadly to the right you see groups of locals living in poverty under makeshift huts & tents.

  Potgul Vihara -  A large statue carved out of a boulder. The statue is widely regarded as that of the image of King Parakramabahu I (1153-1186 AD)

Watching the sun go down over Parakrama Samudra Lake

Whilst back in town again & near the cafe, I noticed my hotel owner hanging around. He started asking about my bus plans for the morning to Anuradhapura and suggested I would need a tuk tuk to take me to the bus station? Does he ever give up! He was really starting to bug me & I was glad I was only staying the one night!

When I reached my hotel & opened my door, I was completely startled as a dog ran out! I then began to think 'has somebody been in my room'? I noticed a lady sat out the front of the hotel (I assumed the husband of the annoying hotel owner?) & told her what had happened. She told me that the dog was always sneaking into the rooms & sleeping under the beds & getting locked in and offered her apologies. I found it a bit strange at first; because when I first checked in I spent about 30 minutes in my room, unpacking etc & found it hard to believe a dog would just stay hiding under a bed for so long? I could see that my backpack had not been touched & so we both agreed it was just a silly thing that had happened. She offered me another room (as I mentioned the dog could have slept on my bed!), & so I decided to take it as it was better for mosquitoes as the room had walls that went all the way to the ceiling!

I later asked if I could have a cup of tea & what I was given was the worse cup of tea I have had in a very long time! Shame on Sri Lanka!