19 Days in Sri Lanka

Day 19 (last day) - Ambalangoda to Colombo (by bus) & then another bus to Negombo

After my breakfast my host took me out on his scooter to visit a few mask shops, he was certainly keen for me to purchase one, I think he may have been on some kind of commission! Without finding any mask I liked he finally took me back to my apartment. I decided I would purchase one from the shop I'd visited yesterday on my return.

When I was all packed I said my goodbyes to the family that had looked after me for the last two days & headed for 'L.A.R. Nandana' on Sriniketharama Rd. The same man was there who I had met a couple of days before, & I think he was pleased to see me again! We struck a deal & I bought a devil's mask for 3000 LKR.

'L.A.R. Nandana' on Sriniketharama Rd - Ambalangoda

The mask I bought!

After I bought my mask, I walked along the main road & soon spotted a bus heading for Colombo coming in my direction & so I jumped on board. It was an air-conditioned bus & the fare was 123 LKR. However, I wished I had travelled by train as the journey took about two & a half hours (the train would have been much quicker).

Entertainment on my bus! (Ambalangoda to Colombo)

After arriving at Colombo bus station I jumped on another bus heading for Negombo (#240/41LKR), & this took another one & a half hours before reaching Negombo at about 3pm (which wasn't what I'd originally hoped for, especially after leaving Ambalangoda at 10am!) I decided to splash out & catch a tuk tuk (60 LKR) to the north of the town to the area known as 'Lewis Place' where all the hotels were located. I settled for a hotel called 'Starbeach' who wanted 1000 LKR, I asked for a small discount as I told them I would be checking out at 11:30pm to catch my flight home. Eventually we agreed on 900 LKR with a free cup of tea!

After I’d checked in, I knew I did not have much time before it got dark; so I caught a tuk tuk to take me to the nearby Lagoon (150 LKR, ripped off a little!). I took some photographs & grabbed a bite to eat before making my way slowly towards the fish market & finally back towards Lewis Place. Here I had my evening meal at 'Ammehula' where I had a fish pizza & wrote my thoughts on the wall of the restaurant as hundreds of other travellers had done in the past! On my way back to my hotel I visited some of the craft shops, & eventually bought myself some batik fabric from a lovely lady who was more than happy to accept half rupees & half sterling as payment (as I did not have enough rupees).

Negombo Lagoon

Near the fish market - Negombo

Playing cricket in Negombo

'Ammehula' in Negombo

My thoughts on my seafood pizza!

I organised a tuk tuk pick-up at 11:30pm to take me to the airport at a price of 500 LKR.

Update, after arriving home:
19 days travelling in Sri Lanka on a budget including approximately 30 bus rides, 8 train rides & miles & miles of hiking! Total spend, approximately £350.

One day I would like to see the east coast of Sri Lanka!

Day 18 - Ambalangoda to Hikkaduwa (by bus) & a walk south as far as Raigama, & another bus to Galle & finally a train back to Ambalangoda

I was up early again & caught a bus to Hikkaduwa (15 LKR). I jumped off the bus 2km north of Hikkaduwa at the Seenigama Temple, which is situated on a tiny island just offshore. All around here I witnessed evidence of the Tsunami that destroyed most of this area in 2004. Many buildings were still left abandoned, although there were plenty of new buildings around. What is sad is the abundance of graves dotted all around on both sides of the road.

After my visit to the Seenigama Temple I continued to walk northwards until I reached the Tsunami Honganji Vihara, erected by Japanese assistance as a memorial to those that died in the Tsunami tragedy. The centre piece is an 18 metre high standing Buddha (the tallest standing Buddha in Sri Lanka). The location is just a few minutes walk away from the rail track where the train travelling to Matara was engulfed by the Tsunami killing at least 1700 people (the world's worst ever train disaster). I would later travel on this line back from Galle to Ambalangoda.

My host's home in Ambalangoda (including a banana tree in garden!)

The Seenigama Temple

Tsunami Honganji Vihara

I later continued to walk to Hikkaduwa (along the main road & sometimes dropping down onto the beach). It was quite 'touristy' in Hikkaduwa as I saw many western faces, some sunbathing on the beach & some 'scootering' up & down the main drag! I decided to continue walking all the way to Raigama, taking in the sights & grabbing a bite to eat before I jumped on a bus to Galle.

Hikkaduwa Beach

Wewala Beach (further down the coast from Hikkaduwa)

Narigama Beach (further down the coast)

Somewhere between Thiranagama & Raigama along the coast

After arriving in Galle I spent a couple of hours around the old town, admiring all the colonial buildings & walking along the Fort. I decided to leave at around 5pm. Initially I was going to catch a bus, but I was a little shocked at the length of the queue at the bus stop & so decided to cross the road to the train station & discovered there was a train (30 LKR) going to Aluthgama which was ideal for me. It was completely empty which seemed a little strange compared to the state of the buses!

Galle - The Portuguese arrived here in 1589 & built a fort, which they later extended with a few bastions and walls. The Dutch captured Galle in 1640 & expanded the fort & all the surrounding streets to what it is today. The British took Galle in 1796.

Galle Fort

A nice cafe serving lovely tea! - Galle

Cricket in Galle!

All Saints Church in Galle - 1868

I arrived back at my apartment at about 6:30pm in time to watch the sun go down on the beach. I met my host here and we had a chat about what I had done & seen during the day. I later had my evening meal which was prepared by his wife again, which was another wonderful curry & rice with two large fish. I got the impression they wanted me to stay another day, but I had already decided to spend my last day in Negombo (close to the airport). However my host did offer to take me to see his friend in the morning (on his scooter) who makes masks, as I had mentioned I was keen to buy one.

Another lovely evening meal - Ambalangoda

Day 17 - Ambalangoda incl a local bus to nearby Karandeniya (Galagoda Sailatharamaya Temple)

I timed my arrival in Ambalangoda for the Vesak celebrations. The Vesak Festival is celebrated as a religious & a cultural festival in Sri Lanka on the full moon of the month of May, for two days.

The most important part of the Buddhist poyas (full moon days), is a threefold celebration commemorating the Buddha’s birth, enlightenment & death, all of which are traditionally thought to have happened on the day of the Vesak poya. In addition, the last of the Buddha’s three alleged visits to Sri Lanka is claimed to have been on Vesak poya day. Lamps lit in front of houses, & pandals, (platforms decorated with scenes from the life of the Buddha) are erected throughout the country. Buses & cars are decorated with streamers, & free food (rice and curry) is distributed in roadside booths known as dansals.

Many devout Buddhists wear simple white dresses & spend the whole day in temples with renewed determination to observe the observance of the Eight Precepts of Buddhism. The day after Vesak is a public holiday. During these two days, the selling of alcohol & flesh is prohibited.

I had my breakfast at the family's home, they served up plenty of toast, tea & bananas, (no eggs as most of the shops were closed as it was a bank holiday). They also gave me some special rice cake that's normally served during Vesak which I thought was very kind of them.

After breakfast & just as I was about to leave my apartment the fisherman who I’d met the previous night turned up & basically started to follow me as a left to go into town! He seemed friendly enough, but I was convinced all he was after was my rupees for whatever tours he could show me! He followed me in a few mask shops, which started to become a little annoying as I really just wanted to be by myself. I started to drop a few hints & when after coming out of the mask museum he was no longer to be seen, I realised he must have got the message!

My apartment in Ambalangoda (Still being rebuilt after the 2004 Tsunami)

Ambalangoda is quite famous for it's mask shops. Most masks were originally produced to be worn by performers in low-country dances, either in devil or kolam dances. Many Sri Lankans believe that disease & illness can be caused by demons, & the purpose of the devil dance is to summon up the demons who are causing the person's sickness, make offerings to them & ask them politely to leave their victim in peace. Kolam are dance drama performances, supposedly date back to Queen Menikpala.

There are three kinds of masked dances. Kolam masks are used in storytelling performances. Raksha (Demon) masks are apotropaic, used in processions & festivals. Sanni (Devil Dance) masks are also apotropaic, used in curing ceremonies.

'Southland Mask Shop' in Ambalangoda

Mask shop in Ambalangoda (The switches are for the ceiling fans!)

I later walked along the beach & slowly headed back towards my apartment, whilst taking a few photographs of the glorious palm trees & blue skies. I then made my way to the bus station to catch the bus to the Galagoda Sailathalaramaya Temple (15 LKR). It's only a few kilometers inland & is home to Sri Lanka's longest reclining Buddha, measuring 35 meters in length (the precise measurements remain unknown since it's considered blasphemous to measure it), & it is said to be 200 years old.

The wonderful beach at Ambalangoda

The new harbour in Ambalangoda (The original was destroyed in the 2004 Tsunami)

The small yellow boat was owned by the family who were looking after me!

The new harbour in Ambalangoda

Reclining Buddha - Galagoda Sailathalaramaya Temple (Karandeniya)

Galagoda Sailathalaramaya Temple (Karandeniya)

Sri Lanka's longest reclining Buddha - Galagoda Sailathalaramaya Temple (Karandeniya)

Galagoda Sailathalaramaya Temple (Karandeniya)

Listening to a senior monk during Vesak (Karandeniya)

After my visit to the temple, I caught the bus back to Ambalangoda & walked around the town again. I visited another mask shop ('L.A.R Nandana' on Sriniketharama Rd), where there was just one man in a small workshop, and he seemed very genuine & his prices were quite reasonable unlike some of the other shops I'd visited earlier. I told him I may well return in a day or so, as he did have some masks that I really liked. After leaving the mask shop I later witnessed a Vesak procession, where people were carrying new clothes for the monks & locals were giving their blessings. People were also handing out free food & drink on the streets which was great!

Vesak celebrations in Ambalangoda

During the evening I chilled out a little in my apartment, before having my evening meal at my hosts home. They were a very nice family, I learned my host had a sister who had married a man from Sweden many years ago, & as a consequence had travelled to many Scandinavian countries whilst keeping in touch with her. They had two daughters living quite nearby & they were also grandparents & his wife was a big fan of Princess Dianna & the whole family recently watched the royal wedding on the TV!

After my evening meal I walked around the town for an hour to see the night time Vesak celebrations, with all the streets & houses decorated with the wonderful lanterns. I stood for a while outside the very large Pandal (just up the road from my apartment), where lots of people were gathered, eating & drinking and listening to the load music that was being played. Everybody seemed to be enjoying the spectacle.

Vesak celebrations in Ambalangoda

Day 16 - Nallantanniya & the climb to Adam's Peak. Nallantanniya to Hatton (local bus) & Colombo (by train) & finally another train to Ambalangoda

I set off for Adam’s Peak at 3:00am, the rain had stopped which was a relief! There were some lights lit all the way, so my touch wasn't really needed. There were also plenty of stalls selling food & tea which was great as I stopped half way for a much needed sweet tea! The steps did become really steep into the second half of the climb & it was quite tough going towards the end. I was a little amazed at how many people were coming down from the peak; I assumed they must have left the summit at around midnight? Some of the people I saw coming down were in a bit of a state!

It was a long way to the top which included about 5,500 steps to reach the summit. At a height of 2243m, it’s Sri Lanka’s 5th highest mountain. The mountain has accumulated a mass of legends centered around the curious depression at its summit, the Sri Pada or Sacred Footprint. The original Buddhist story claims that this is the footprint of the Buddha himself, made as a request of the local god Saman. Although around about the 8th century, Muslims began to claim the footprint as that of Adam, who is said to have first set foot on earth here. Its tradition the climb is done through the night, so as to watch the sunrise at the top & the rather unusual shadow that is created against the other nearby mountains.

The start of the climb to Adam's Peak

At the summit - Adam's Peak

Pilgrims waiting to pay their respects - Adam's Peak

Everyone rings the bell at the summit - Adam's Peak

Views from the summit - Adam's Peak

Watching the sunrise - Adam's Peak

Adam's Peak

Views from the summit - Adam's Peak

Pilgrims going to see the Sri Pada (Sacred Footprint) - Adam's Peak

I reached the summit at 5:00am (still dark) & was amazed at the amount of people already present waiting for the sun to rise. Some were huddled together sleeping & trying to keep warm, I am not sure why they hike up the mountain so early only to freeze at the top! It was wonderful to see the sun rise, and I took some great photographs. I started to make my way back down at about 6:30am, & it wasn't long before my legs were feeling like jelly (I did race a little going up!) I finally made it back to my guest house at around 8am, just a little tired!

On my way down - Adam's Peak

Macaque monkey eating a cracker! - Adam's Peak

Looking back at Adam's Peak

Dagoba at the bottom of climb - Adam's Peak

Back at the start of the climb - Adam's Peak

I packed my things & headed off to the north of the village to catch the bus back to Hatton (55 LKR). It was packed & although I did have a seat I was constantly nudged & poked by the passengers standing in the aisle again all the way to Hatton. After reaching Hatton, I purchased my train ticket for Colombo (164 LKR), for the 10:45am train. Unfortunately it was jam-packed again & I did not get a seat, although I did spend most of the journey sat by one of the door ways, sat on the step, (a bit like the locals do!) This initially was great fun & the views & fresh air were a welcome, however being awake since 2:30am & after my hike to Adam’s Peak, I was beginning to feel really tired & so I had to be careful I did not fall off the train!

Me on the train to Colombo!

On my way to Colombo

After arriving in Colombo at about 3:45pm, I booked my next train ticket to Aluthgama, (Galle train at 4:40pm) the fare was 110 LKR. It was one of newer trains (hence the higher fare) & it was nice to travel along the coast with some wonderful views in comfort. The train was busy; however I did get a seat which was great as I was really tired by now. Unfortunately, I missed my stop for Aluthgama (I do remember the train stopping briefly at some point but I never noticed a sign?) I decided to jump off at Ambalangoda instead, luckily there wasn't a ticket inspector when I arrived so I didn't have to pay any extra!

It wasn't long after walking out of Ambalangoda train station (& looking through my guide book) when somebody approached me & asked if I was looking for a hotel. He told me he was a local fisherman & he had a friend who had an apartment on the beach nearby that I could stay at. As it was quite late & I was very tired I accepted his offer. During our walk through the town together he told me how he had lost his wife & home in the Tsunami of 2004. He also told me he now has a new home (further inland), which was built with the help of aid from England!

After about a 20 minute walk (heading south, parallel to the beach), we reached what was obviously a half-finished apartment. The owner was also a local fishing man who had also lost his home & holiday apartment in the Tsunami & both buildings were still currently in the stages of being rebuilt. Before too long the owner’s wife joined us & also a local tuk tuk driver (a friend of the hotel owner). The owners wanted 1500 LKR for the apartment, however I told them it was a lot more than I would normally pay. They then asked me how much I would normally pay & so I said between 700 LKR & 1200 LKR, they agreed to give me the apartment for 800 LKR which I thought was a bargain!

Whilst the owners were preparing my room, the local fisherman & the tuk tuk driver were obviously very keen on offering their services around the town! I made it quite clear that I was on a very tight budget, & I think they got the message!

Later the owners invited me into their home (only a few yards away) & I was served a lovely fish curry. Their home was only half finished with the upstairs like a building site (just like my apartment!) After my meal I headed back to my apartment for some much needed sleep!

Accommodation details are:
H. K. Ratnasiri (The owner is known locally as 'Thirty')
'FALKENBERG'
Beach Garden
Hirewatta | Ambalangoda